I then recognised that this is a Scenario 1 situation. Luckily the camera did a fairly decent job, and I started to get a hang on what these settings mean.
You might miss a few taxis at first, but being patient is the key! Another type of shots commonly seen in street photography are those with an architectural appeal. The sheer point of the photograph is to capture the converging lines as seen by a photographer standing on either end of that street. To get a feeling of what I am referring to, see the example below. Think about it - there must have been sufficient light in the first place so that you can see the pattern of the converging lines.
So, it follows that you could lower your ISO to the lowest level usually without much difficulty. This reduces the noise in your photos as much as possible. Another consideration is the depth of field.
You want to show perspective and therefore, you want the entire street to be in focus. Now that you have both ISO and aperture sorted out, the only thing you need to work out is the shutter speed. I adjusted my shutter speed until the light meter reads -1 EV. Framing is a concept that is central to street photography. To get this effect, you need a shallower depth of field, aka a larger aperture.
Taking this image above as an example, I decided that the person pushing his bicycle is my subject that needs to be in focus. With this image, I wanted to tell the story of a man with his bicycle in the midst of the chaos in Mong Kok. Since it was in the afternoon, there was sufficient daylight and so I set my ISO at I then decided to use Aperture priority Av Mode instead. Most likely, what you want to do falls into one of the above categories. As a result, everything is just a matter of logical reasoning.
Once you made up your mind on that, the techniques will just fall into place. Your photography is not defined by what mode you shoot on. Therefore, there is no need to feel obliged to shoot on manual. Sometimes, it is totally normal to have no idea regarding a particular setting, even if you have identified your shot as one of the above scenarios. Shutter speed determines for how long the light coming through the lens hits the sensor. With that, we can view this as the middle step in exposure.
Shutter speed is a literal term, so the practicalities are easy to grasp. The slower the shutter speed, the longer the sensor is exposed to the light; the faster the shutter speed, the less exposure the sensor gets. Simple, right? The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the sensor is to light. For example, if you took two photos keeping the aperture and shutter speed constant and only adjusting the ISO, the photo with the higher ISO would be brighter.
Following our theme, we could consider this the third and final stage in exposure. You know the basics of manual exposure. Luckily, this part is the simplest yet. All DSLR and mirrorless cameras — and most film cameras — feature a light meter. It will probably look like this:.
Image Here, the light meter is balanced at 0. While practising, a top tip is to set your camera to autoexposure mode and pay attention to which aperture, shutter speed and ISO settings it selects for you in as many different lighting situations as you can.
This will give you a good general idea of which settings are appropriate in different conditions. On this manual exposure cheat sheet, you can see there is a range of aperture settings. Not all lenses have the same aperture settings. Some will have wider or narrower minimum and maximum settings. Along with governing the amount of light that enters the lens, the aperture setting influences depth of field DOF.
DOF is the amount of the photo that is acceptably sharp. The wider the aperture setting you choose, the shallower the DOF will be. You can see this on the cheat sheet graphic of the person and tree. A narrow aperture setting allows less light to enter the lens. A wide aperture setting allows more light into the lens and the DOF is shallower.
You can adjust the aperture setting to help balance your exposure and control how much of your composition is in focus. The amount of DOF can be used creatively in your photographs. Opening the shutter exposes the camera sensor to light, which allows it to create an image.
The duration the shutter is open for controls how much light will affect the sensor. If the shutter is open for too long, the photo will be overexposed.
If the shutter is open for a duration that is too short, the photo will be underexposed. This is known as camera shake. If you have a moving subject and use a slow shutter speed , your subject will be blurred. This is known as motion blur. In the manual exposure cheat sheet, you can see the graphic of a person running.
At a shutter speed of 1 second, the figure is very blurred. The relationship between how fast your subject is moving and the shutter speed will determine how much blurring occurs. You can adjust the shutter speed to help balance your exposure and to control blur from camera shake or motion.
Motion blur and camera shake, or a lack thereof, can be used creatively in your photography. A low number means your sensor is going to be less responsive than when you use a high number. I prefer to use my ISO as a foundation for my exposure.
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